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:THE ULTIMATE : FOUNDATION BRUSH GUIDE

Finding the perfect foundation brush can be a minefield. Choose wisely and it should last you years as a faithful friend.....choose poorly and you are stuck with something you never use. I am fortunate to work in a world where I have access to the latest and hottest brushes. I sometimes get sent brushes to play with, see how I feel and then use in shoots.
This means I really have an idea how I feel about different brushes and what I like. So I decided to create a long list for you about the ones I've worked with and what I think. This is purely opinion as much of make up selections is, so you'll find some you agree with and some you don't. I'm entitled to my opinion and if you have one on a brush we've reviewed then let us know in the comments.

THE TEST : I've applied the same foundation all week using different brushes. I used a light weight foundation although some of these I have knowledge of how they handle with heavier stuff too. I used the new MAC water weight foundation in NC15.

Bdellium 957 kabuki brush.

I love this brush. I mean I seriously love this brush. I bought it in Tilt cosmetics in London and it is fantastic. So the idea with this is that you can buff the foundation into the skin easily. I use in a circular motion. I have to say that this is deceptive. When you use this brush, it doesn't feel as if it picks up a lot of product. However when you brush it onto the skin, you'll see that it just absorbs it. I find that there is limited blending with this so if you prefer your foundation on in a hurry then this is a great one to try. You don't need to coat the entire brush in foundation, just the tips of bristles and then it leaves a light, blended effect. Kabuki style brushes are a bit harder to clean is all because the foundation gets wedged into the brush. However, this one isn't too bad as the bristles aren't too densely packed.
Great for - A light, quick and easy blend. Great if you like foundation buffed in naturally.

MAC 187 face brush duo fibre.
The MAC duo fibre is a popular brush. Duo fibre refers to the blend of natural and synthetic fibres which help to blend the product. The black hair is natural and the white is synthetic. Once again, these are a circular motion brush with quick movement. I find this blends easily. I prefer the kabuki style of denser packed fibres and there is minimal shedding with this one. However the brush is brilliant and a great quick application. I found that I did have to go back over and get rid of some marks in the foundation. This brush is so easy to clean. It's done in five seconds.
Great for - A light, quick and easy blend. More surface application rather than buffed in.
Tom Ford 02 Cream Foundation brush
This is the daddy of foundation brushes. I won't tell you the cost because you'd never use it if I told you! It's scary! However, it applied the foundation like a dream. I haven't used a full coverage with this yet but it handled water weight like a charm. This says cream foundation but water weight is not only a liquid but a very light liquid at that. So don't worry that your not using it for cream and cream only. I found the brush ate foundation but applied it in a  medium coverage. I had to do a bit more blending then the kabuki and duo fibre brushes as it left a few streaks. I loved it though and I don't regret buying it for a minute. Gorgeous. I will say that for the money, the brush feels expensive. I don't normally care about the handle of a brush but this was lovely. It feels every bit as expensive as you would expect and then some.
Great if - You like an expensive luxury present for yourself, medium application, smooth and easy to buff.
MAC 188 duo fibre brush
I've included this one because a lot of people think it's a foundation brush. It isn't. It's great for cream pigment or colour application but not foundation. I found I couldn't stand using this for foundation. I had to go back over it with my hands. It's not intended for foundation. It takes an age to do because it's so small. However, a lot of people seem to think that this can be used as a foundation brush much like the 187 (see above) but smaller. It's also seen as a cheaper alternative to the 187 as well. It really isn't the same thing. I love this for a cream blusher or a body paint but as a foundation brush? nope.
Great for - Blusher and cream product application.

Real Techniques Buffing Brush (part of the face set)
This one is great. This has a similar idea to the Bdellium 957 brush. Buffing, quick, easy to apply and minimal fuss. I love and hate this brush in equal measures. While I love that this is an easy to use brush, I hate the design of it. I cannot stand the design. Basically, as a make up artist, this brush does not fit in any brush belt because of the chunky handle and also the rubber grip part on the base of the brush does not allow it to sit comfortably. Shame because I love using these in appointments and normally, they get left in the over spill box which has excess brushes in it because of the grip. I have heard that this is the first thing to fall apart as well. I have to point out the value for money of these brushes as well. This is part of a set of 5 brushes which are all incredibly good for roughly about £25. I love them. While they are not built to last and the handle is proof of that, they are great. I prefer the orange set to the white or purple as not all the brushes in those are useful.
Great for - value for money, sets for presents and light applications buffed in, No muss no fuss.
Estee Lauder Sculpting Foundation brush 2
I got this a few months ago. I used it once and I've just found it again! Oops! My bad! I don't normally get on with sculpting brushes. I have one from Sephora which I feel the same about. I think these might be better with cream products but I haven't tried it. I wasn't blown away by this. I will repeat that I think its a cream product issue. The idea with these is that it glides over the cheekbones and makes contouring with foundations or natural applications - a breeze. However, I found it streaked, the bristles felt weird and I wasn't really happy with the finish. I have used this in an appointment only to use my hands five seconds later. I am determined to find a cream to try this with however as it is meant to be amazing. It's my only Lauder brush though.
Great for - sculpting, cream products and generally looking impressive in a belt.
MAC 130 Duo fibre buffing brush
This was something I had wanted for ages. I love it. Its a super easy to use, short bristled brush. Same idea as the 187 in terms of fibres but this has a different effect. It buffs the foundation into the skin and really works it to get the most natural effect. I find that I love using this one. It's one of my top five brushes. My only complaint is the same complaint of all kabuki style brushes which is that they are harder to clean then most brushes. I don't mind though. In fact, this is more of a personal use brush. I still prefer the Bdellium brush to this but only just. This is far easier to get hold of as well since it is sold in every MAC store. I would suggest one to anyone looking for a good sturdy make up brush. It glides the foundation on, natural and light application.
Great for - easy, light application with minimal fuss or blending.
MAC 190 Foundation Brush
This is a traditionally shaped foundation brush. I find most people go for this brush because it's what they are used to. Although, it doesn't actually suit everyone who uses it. Which is a shame. It can leave a heavier foundation application then the circular brushes which is great if your using a light finish but you want a heavier application. It does streak. I find that quick movements and also taking the time to not overload the brush helps to avoid this. Also, if you apply then allow a minute to dry before going back over with the brush (with no product on it) also gets rid of any marks. I think this streak business (which is not the fault of MAC but a common issue with the shape and incorrect use) is why most people do not get on with this brush. It's a shame because it is a sturdy and useful brush to have. It's an old reliable. It also comes in another version, the 193 which has a tapered edge for contour and also, applying in harder to reach areas like the nose. I am not going to do a separate bit for that as I'll be doing the same review with it. I think using a heavier foundation is best with this if you have a choice but it can do a light one too. If you are someone who finds this brush hard to use and finds that it streaks then switching to a circular brush could be a better choice. This is one for someone with a bit more time on their hands.
Great for - precision, if you have time in the mornings, heavier foundation, heavier application.

191 MAC foundation square brush
I feel the same as I do for the 190 brush (see the above review) as it handles almost identically. I do find that this has a higher application though so its likely to give a thicker coverage. I love this brush for body painting - thought I would throw that in there! I have two of these because I love them that much. These are much harder to clean though. I don't know why. Possibly because the bristles are more densely packed together making it harder to get the foundation out once it is worked in. So yeah, this is another one for a heavier finish.
Great for - Person with time for blending, will need a brush cleaner, heavier coverage and heavier foundation brush.
196 MAC Foundation brush
This is a new foundation brush from MAC. I have had a couple of plays with this one using a heavier and light foundation and I love both. I really do. It's a really easy to use brush in circular motions. It soaks up the foundation as well so you feel as if you are not applying much but in reality - its loads! I do find its more difficult to clean for this reason. The bristles are once again really compact so its harder to keep clean. I'd advise picking this one up. I love it.
Great for - lighter, more natural, buffed in make ups.

TOP FIVE BRUSHES
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1 - MAC 196 brush
2 - Bdellium 957 kabuki brush
3 -  Tom Ford 02 cream foundation brush
4 - Real Techniques orange brush for foundation
5 - MAC 130 brush

Foundation brushes I didn't mention but own
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MAC short handled 190  brushes
Avon flat foundation brushes
Make up Forever flat foundation brushes
MAC duo fibre 159 brush
MAC duo fibre 127 brush


Foundation Brushes I want to try and not try
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Difficult one. I do want to get some Illamasqua brushes soon. I haven't ever tried them and I am desperate to see how it works out. I also want to pick up some Inglot brushes as well. I think my next purchase when in London will be a Bdellium brush set though. Need these! I am also avoiding buying the contour brushes from Real Techniques at the minute - over priced and from what I hear, not great....

General rules for foundation brushes
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Want a heavy coverage? Flat brush
Want a light coverage? Circular brush
Want a vegan brush? Avoid duo fibre and go synthetic. OCC do great vegan brushes as do Sugarpill
Cleaner? I like Kiko for on the spot photoshoot cleaner. It's not an in-depth cleaner but will keep them clean enough to reuse. I use MAC brush cleaner for a good hard clean then I clean with shampoo once a month on the powder brushes.
AVOID - Getting water in the metal part of the brush because hair will not only fall out but the metal will go a bit funny too!

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